Hello again everyone, Its been some time since my last post, work has kept me so busy, I need a day off to relax again...... Well I came across this on Steve's site and I thought it would be a great little addition "Each of these processes(vertical smoothing,TR & relaxers) results in some destruction of the cystine or disulfide bonds. Peroxide and other oxidizing agents convert cystine to cysteic acid, which is not a cross-link and therefore weakens the hair structure. The longer peroxide has been exposed to the hair, the more cysteic acid will be formed.
Bleaching or streaks convert 25% of the disulfide bonds to cysteic acid. Since only about 50% of all the hair's disulfide bonds are involved in perming (Opti smooth/Cold/Heat permanent hair straightening), this means that half may already be gone or destructed before the perming process begins. Therefore, you should not expect a firm, long lasting straightness with bleached/streaked hair, since there are fewer bonds to support it! Nonprofessional language:
For example, try to visualize your hair as though it is a 10 foot long ladder that has 10 rungs. Each time you cut 25% of the rungs (streak/highlight your hair), it results in some destruction of the ladder. So now this hypothetical ladder becomes wobbly and dangerous to climb and may break apart if you attempt to climb it, since there are fewer rungs to support it! The exact same thing with hair.
Afraid! Sure, as I said, there is a chance for the hair to break. It's not that you cannot get the Opti.smooth, it's just that you need a very skilled and experienced hair straightening expert that understands the chemistry and the science behind his art. Keep in mind, a trained stylist is not enough. First, this special stylist and NOT just any trained stylist will test and evaluate your hair and if all seems to be good, the streaked sections will be protected and the strength is adjusted to the process. Otherwise, those streaked sections of your hair will be over-processed and becomes very sick. And once that happens, there is NO cure, except to cut it off. " copyright www.verticalsinhair.com Steve Tcherkezian.
Steve is so wonderful at teaching, his example above is a great way to understand hair, that is how I learned to understand it.
Hope this is of some aid to those of you considering any of these chemical services
Have a great hair day always and
Remember "It's your hair, who are you going to trust"
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