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The Girl ...
Tigi girl, 21.
Dedicated to Andrew Kalapaca & Steve Tcherkezian

Andrew at Toni & Guy
180 Bloor Street West
Steve at Other sites

Monday, June 26, 2006

Hello everyone,
Tonight I read something that I thought I should share with you all, it's from, Steve's site (one of my hair guru's) and it is a great read for anyone considering any chemical straightening/smoothing service. So read on and enjoy......

"Because hair diameter and proportion of cuticle to cortex are different, penetration time varies even with hair of equal condition. Studies show that the time of penetration for hair of equal condition and TR solution of equal strength is fastest for average diameter, and slowest for coarse hair, with fine hair in the middle. So as you can see, it is difficult to answer your questions as to the processing time and the choice of formula strength.
If I was doing your TR, I would first determine its texture, structural strength and its porosity level and its condition. Then on I'll decide which formula to use. In addition, I'll take into consideration the scientific study report and most likely I'll be using the lower pH strength (Soft formula or Normal strength), instead of FSD. Once the thio solution had been applied, I would run an elasticity test periodically. This will indicate to me the exact or just about the exact time to rinse the thio (Liscio) solution. For instance, I use Straight Tio TR System. Straight Tio comes in 3 strengths - pH 6.6, pH 8.8 and pH 9.5. FSD would be equivalent to Straight Tio pH 9.5. I would use pH 8.8 on your hair.
There is a misconception amongst stylists regarding FSD and other TR systems that are formulated for "Virgin, Curly & Resistant Hair". The term "For Virgin Extremely Curly and Resistant Hair" is misleading for stylists that are not familiar with the science of permanent straightening. The majority of stylists look at the hair type and ignore the texture of the hair and so if it is curly or extremely curly, they'll automatically use the FSD which may most likely be the wrong choice formula to begin with. As I said, before I do TR on a client, I must spend some time analyzing her hair type, condition and styling habits. This information will give me an idea of what corrective work I will do. It will also help me determine which formula is best for the client. Most important, this analysis will give me the information I need to give my client a better idea of how their hair type and condition will affect the success of the TR. Sometimes I need to customize the TR solution according to the different hair type in the nape area verses the crown area of head of hair. " Steve Tcherkezian

I hope that the message of that is clear, TR is still very new and alot of technicians are just jumping on the TR bandwagon without truly understanding what they are doing and ruining people's hair in the process. TR is not about applying, hoping and praying that it turns out okay, nor is it about playing kitchen chemist, it's about understanding the science behind the art. TR is not regulated and there is no real course on this....most technicians learn from a one or two day seminar, a video tape, or a one day class.
Think about this.....before a hairstylist can actually start cutting hair on clients he or she has to be trained, and many stylists go through vigorous training before they start actually doing clients and it takes many of them many years before they start charging about $100 + for a cut. There is no way someone who just learned to cut hair from a one or two day seminar/class or video tape would be hired to start cutting hair, let alone charge good money for it, so why do people pay big bucks for a chemical technician who just learned yesterday or is still learning. In the beauty industry there seem to be prices for students, you know how some beauty schools offer cheaper prices in exchange for a student to get practice before they actually get liscenced? TR is not that way. If you are a stylist or a technician you can buy the stuff watch the video and start offering the service tomorrow!
Why would you allow such a person to play games with your hair? You are paying that technician a ridiculous sum of money so don't allow them to mess it up for you....think, would you pay a stylist who has only cut hair once or twice while watching a video and having no real practice to charge you $100+ let alone cut your hair? No, I didn't think so.....
Don't just trust anyone to chemically alter your hair, more damage can be done then you think, THINK do your research and ask may take time to find someone really good but it will be well worth it.

"It's your hair who are you going to trust?"

Tigi Girl. e-mail me at Archives |

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