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The Girl ...
Tigi girl, 21.
Dedicated to Andrew Kalapaca & Steve Tcherkezian

Andrew at Toni & Guy
180 Bloor Street West
Steve at Other sites

Thursday, December 09, 2004

TR Procudure
Now I will begin to help you understand TR a bit more by telling you the procedure. I thought about putting the TR procedure in my own words, I have learned all I know about TR from Steve, yup one of the two people this blog is dedicated to. He has explained it in such a way that is much better than me putting it into my own words.

1-The application Step: Application must be quick 10 to 15 minutes with gentle manipulation. Processing time: 20 to 55 minutes on natural and natural resistant hair. 10 to 20 minutes on sensitized hair.

Caution: Temperature alters and accelerates the permanent straightening process 10% for every degree up or down from 21.11 Celsius or 70 Fahrenheit degrees. As a result, if the stylist processes your hair with heat under a steam machine or a hair dryer, and if the temperature gets above the normal requirement, steam will form inside the hair shaft which in turn will affect the hair, causing the hair shaft to fragment and/or burst. The naked eye cannot see this, what you'll see, and/or notice is breakage of the hair or severe hair breakage.

2-The elasticity test Step: Since we can't see the molecules, the stylist must have a way of judging that the molecular rearrangement has taken place. This is done via taking a small strand of hair between the fingers and gently pulling in outward direction. When the protein has softened and moved sufficiently to take on the new straight shape, it is judged to be completed and the solution is rinsed from the hair.

3- The straightener rinsing Step: Once the test has been taken and has reached its desired configuration, the straightening solution is rinsed from the hair. Rinsing is as important to the success of straightening as chemical neutralizing. Hair must be rinsed for not less than 3-5 minutes, depending on the length of the hair. If the water is too hot, it may cause the relaxed hair to revert. If the water too cold, it will not stop the processing action. If the unreacted straightening solution is not thoroughly rinsed or trapped within the hair, it can cause premature reversion. In addition you may notice an odor during shampooing or thermal styling.

4-Blow-dry Step: Dry the hair down to 80%-95% or so.

5-Ceramic flat iron Step: The qualities of the flat iron are of ceramic elements and ceramic plates, and not just metal plates. Because to get it hot enough, the metal would just fry the hair. Parting, sectioning and pressing the hair with the thermal ceramic flat iron is a very complicated process and creates a special challenge especially on hair that's very frizzy. When ironing the hair it is important to maintain the proper tension in the hand that is guiding the section. Using uneven tensions during the ironing process or taking too large of a section and pressing the hair at the wrong degree of dampness will cause bends. If bends appear on the First Slide, they cannot be easily removed as the hair still contains water.

Note: Do not confuse a "90 degree bend" with "new growth". As the hair grows, you will notice a contrast (a slight wave or bump) between your natural curl pattern meeting the previously TRd hair. This is perfectly normal.

Can a bend/ be corrected? This is almost like ironing wrinkles from clothing. The bends can be corrected, but we must go through the complete TR processing steps. Be careful, because most of the time the stylist creates more bends during the repair. Therefore, I do not recommend it. Instead, recondition and moisturize the hair to stop further damage. If the bends are not severe, they can be corrected with the up-coming TR retouch.

Warning: There is another type of bend that can occur. The reforming chemical step1 should not be applied to the scalp because it could penetrate the pores and cause reduction. When the hair is stretched or combed, the new growth could be pulled out of the pores causing the hair to bend and break at the roots. This type of bend will be noticeable as prickly small bumps in the areas where the chemical touched the scalp as soon as you comb, brush or pull the hair.

This is very important: If you notice a bend, a reduction, a prickly small bump in the scalp area, it means the hair bulb is loose and had been slightly pulled out prematurely. DO NOT shampoo, comb or brush your hair for at least 3 to 5 days. Treat your hair very gently without pulling or tugging. Keep in mind that a TR repair specialist cannot correct this kind of bend. This is not a mechanical bend. The best thing to do is to Wait. On shampoo day, make sure you do NOT use an alkali shampoo. Use only acid balanced, protein and moisturizing hair care products. Redken's All Soft Shampoo, All Soft Conditioner and All Soft Heavy Creme, Color Extend Total Recharge and Extreme Deep Fuel is a great choice. Or, the ID CARE Shampoo and Treatment.

Why ceramic heat? Ceramic conducts and maintains heat far more efficiently than other material and retain consistent heat with more even heat distribution, eliminating damaging hot spots. It will provide moist heat, compared to traditional metal plates which have dehydrating effects on the hair, resulting in more damage and loss of moisture. The highest quality of plates and elements are manufactured with the highest quality of ceramic and not just coated ceramics.

6-Applying neutralizer/oxidizing lotion Step: Now the disulfide bonds must be neutralized to lock the hair into its new straight shape. Scientists call this step oxidation. Application must be quick 5-6 minutes with gentle manipulation. Maximum processing time is 5-20 minutes, or according to manufacturer'’s instructions.

If the neutralizing solution remains on the hair too long, the hair becomes weak and can break easily. If the neutralizing solution is not timely, the cystine bonds which have been disconnected during the straightening process cannot be re-connected. Hence, the hair becomes totally confused and reverts back. The majority of stylists think that the reforming solution cause hair damage and are afraid to leave the reforming solution #1 long enough, therefore, the protein chains are not disconnected and will revert back. In fact, interestingly enough the neutralizing step #2 is the most damaging.

Neutralizing and Oohiro's Vivian machine. In his article, one of my colleagues stated that: "Normally high-quality neutralizer products revitalize the hair only 60%. However, using Vivian (after immediately applying the neutralizer) it revitalizes 98%. Without Vivian you have to wait 48-72 hours before washing, because your hair needs to settle down to its normal state". I don't believe that "high quality neutralizers only revitalize by 60%". In my limited study, so far I have found about 85% regeneration which is lower than a traditional perm but acceptable. I don't know this machine but it's very unlikely it has any effect on the degree of neutralization. I would stick with my instincts and experience on this one.

7-Rinsing the neutralizer/oxidizing lotion Step: The oxidizing lotion should be thoroughly rinsed from the hair, not less than 3 minutes for alkaline perms and 4-5 minutes for acid perms; depending on the length of hair.

8-Blow-dry Step: Style hair and smooth the ends. Generally, there is no need to use a brush.

9-Finishing Step: Some manufacturers may exclude this step. Different companies have different rules, but they set their rules based on experience. The TR stylist should IGNORE the manufacturer's instruction and iron the hair one final time. Having contact with water is the last thing you want to do for the first 48 - 72 hours. Without getting the water all the way out, the hair could possibly revert back a little. Skipping this step just because the stylist had been lucky so far with good results, it means “not finishing the TR process correctly”.

Copyright: Steve Tcherkezian "Verticals In Hair" 2004.

X-tenso Procedure
Is pretty much like TR except there is not ironing involved, so just omit steps 4 and 5, the setting of the hair after the second solution has been rinsed can vary, some technicians roller set the hair and some flat iron it and others just leave it alone and let it air dry. This is simply a matter of the clients preference, as you the client can ask to have it roller set or flat ironed or let to air dry. So the steps are pretty much the same, also X-tenso takes less time to perform so that equals less time in the salon, because there is no ironing step and that step is usually the longest in regards to TR as it can take anywhere from an hour to two hours.

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